2 – Falling in love with Croatia

Written by Brittany Haas

On Christmas Eve, we woke up and prepared the truck to drive. We often don’t drive more than an hour at a time, but today, we had a longer transit planned. We prepared our passports for our much anticipated border crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina, our first non-EU country. Exiting the EU has an added level of adventure to it, and I had been looking forward to this for weeks now.

It was a rainy morning, with intermittent thunderstorms. The rain was so heavy that in places, it seemed the road would become a river. It was a miserable start to Christmas, but a rainy day isn’t always a bad driving day, so we pressed on. Before turning inland toward the border, we drove further along the Croatian Highway 8, winding along the dramatic coastline. We had been on this road for weeks now, and had settled into endless views of crystal clear water, shorelines of rocky wonderlands, and mountain views. We rounded a corner and found ourselves awestruck by what we saw. Croatia was delivering on a whole new level. We saw mountains rising 1400+ m. up away from a dramatic coastline.

We needed time to take this in. Luckily, there was a pause in the rainshowers, so we pulled over at a viewpoint and took a short walk down toward the sea to a small monument. We stood there and just absorbed the enormity of where we were. Despite the crummy weather, Croatia didn’t seem ready for us to leave yet, and we weren’t either. Standing right there, we decided to stay a few more weeks in Croatia, and to head to Bosnia and Herzegovina later in January, when I have a week of vacation planned. Luckily, we have time right now. And this is what overland travel is all about. You can’t plan or anticipate everything bad or everything wonderful, so you need to be ready to seize opportunities when they presented themselves. And here, we had some opportunity for mountain exploration.

This view convinced us to extend our stay in Croatia and to continue along the coastline.

The truth is, that we are both falling in love with Croatia. In particular, we are falling in love with winter in Croatia. We have both been to Croatia multiple times, Chris more than I. Croatia is a popular summer vacation destination with Germans. But what is different about this visit to Croatia, is that it is winter. Along the coastline, where almost every village is centered on tourism, everything is shut down, and we feel that we have the coastline all to ourselves. We have had countless sea-front parking locations, lonely walks along coastal trails and get to marvel at the character and simplicity of the small villages that are scattered up and down the coast. If we were here in summer, we probably would both be in a hurry to get out of here.

This was the first day we had that was warm enough to enjoy lunch outside in the sunshine without jackets.

Now, don’t get too swept away by our reports of Croatia. We are still working at least 40 hours a week, so our activities are limited to weekends, and the Christmas week, when we both took vacation. Despite this, we have fit in several hikes, including a couple of bike and hikes, visits to Plitnice and Krka National Parks, a via ferrata south of Split, rock climbing above Brela, paddling, snorkeling in our thickets wetsuits, and a magnificent mountain tour in Biokovo National Park.

So, here we are, already falling in love with the very first country we are exploring on this route. We have at least 17 more countries to go. Will we fall in love with all of them? We will have to wait and see.

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The Biokovo Nature Park in Croatia is a dramatic region, where the mountains rise over 1000 meters directly out of the sea. Our loop hike from Veliko Brdo, near Makarska, was  packed full of dramatically diverse terrain, fun surprises and sea views.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
One of our best parking spots was this secluded beach just south of Trogir. Both beach bars were completely deserted and we shared the lot with just a couple of other campers. We went snorkeling and paddling from this location.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Paddling on December 23rd wasn't exactly warm, but it was certainly good for the soul! Croatia doesn't really have sand, which leaves the water crystal clear and makes for perfect fish viewing from the boat.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
The view from our parking spot on Christmas Eve was a gift in and of itself. The wind picked up overnight, rocking Tusker back and forth throughout the night. It became unbearable, and we packed up early the next morning in search of a more wind-protected spot.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Chris soaking in the views in Biokovo Nature Park. 

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Rock climbing in Biokovo Nature Park on Christmas was an absolute hit. The rock wall we attempted to conquer the entire day sheltered us from strong wind gusts and the sea views from the top kept us motivated to keep pushing just a little bit harder.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Interacting with the many street cats and street dogs is a regular part of our travels. In fact, we usually have extra cat food and dog food with us just for them.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Scouting a canyon on Christmas day. This one was listed on Open Canyon, but without any helpful information. We were curious, and although it wasn't a day for canyoning, we checked it out and updated the database.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Climbing is fun. Climbing when you are perfectly protected from an icy wind, and when you have sea views, is even better.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
We love Croatian food.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Chris traverses off-trail to get a better look at a massive rock wall and the bolted routes that ascend it.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Just one of many perfect little seafront parking spots we enjoyed during the Croatian winter.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Daily life for us includes taking walks and making friends.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
One of my all-time favorite parking spots in Karlobag.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Our secluded beach spot near Trogir.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Our secluded beach spot near Trogir.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
The views out the window just never get old.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
There's always something to do on an old truck! Luckily, nothing is broken. Chris is just lubricating the front axle.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
One of our favorite parking spots at Karlobag. Do you see Tusker?

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Even the simple roadside pullouts along the coastal road, Highway 8, in Croatia are special.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
If we were in Croatia in summer, we couldn't even dream of these seaside overnight spots.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Hiking at Krupa, far away from the top tourist tracks, was an absolute delight.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Hiking at Krupa, far away from the top tourist tracks, was an absolute delight.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
With most of the restaurants along the Croatian coastline closed in winter, it was rare for us to have a restaurant within walking distance. This Ethno restaurant was oozing with character and ambience.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Enjoying the via ferrata near Split.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Celebrating a successful via ferrata summit near Split.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Can you spot Tusker in the dramatic terrain of Biokovo Nature Park?

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Our Christmas dinner.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Cleaning a route after a fun climb near Makarska.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
As we made our way south, we finally came across the first locally produced olive oil of our trip.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park in the off-season was pure magic.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
We came across a destroyed and almost abandoned village. Many of the buildings were still covered in scars from bullets. It was a somber reminder of the horrors that took place during the war in the Balkans in the 90s.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
A spectacular sunset parked at a windy mountain pass above Karlobag.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
One of the great things about traveling slowly is that we spend most of our time discovering areas that aren't mentioned in any travel guides. This hike up a stony ridge was an absolute win.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
The famous waterfalls of Krka National Park.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Hiking in Biokovo Nature Park.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
On our first day in Croatia, we enjoyed a hike in Nature Park Žumberak and were delighted to soak in some sunshine and enjoy some bratwurst at this mountain hut.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
The short winter days did get dreary, so we made it a point to visit some Christmas markets to lighten things up. This Christmas Market was in Zadar.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
It may not have been sunny, warm, or green, but having Plitvice Lakes National Park all to ourselves, and paying less than a quarter of the high-season price, left us full of joy.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
At a pass above Karlobag.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
There's no Photoshop happening here...it's just Mother Nature doing her thing.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
The entire time we were in Croatia, we had two days that were warm enough for us to pull out our camping furniture and enjoy a meal outside.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
There's always something to on the truck! Chris is finishing installing our second rearview camera (this one actually points forward to help us with low bridges and branches). 

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
One of our favorite parking spots at Karlobag.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
It doesn't matter where we stopped. Every inch of the Croatian coastline is its own little paradise. 

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Hiking near Krupa.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Our visit to Krka National Park was a hike and bike. We cycled along this lake from town and then left our bikes behind to go explore the waterfalls.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Just another day traveling through Croatia in winter. 

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
On December 23rd, we finally had enough sunshine and temperatures just warm enough to inflate the kayak and enjoy a short snorkel in our thickest wetsuits.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
We almost needed a second cart! Finding one of our favorite German grocery chains stocked full of German products was an absolute treat! I'd say we over-shopped, but we don't regret any of it.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Getting into the Christmas spirit at a Christmas market.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/
Chris hanging out on the via ferrata near Split.

Read more in our Travel Journal entry 2, Falling in love with Croatia: https://tuskerontour.com/journal/2/ 
Learn more about our adventures in Croatia in our Croatia Travel Guide: https://tuskerontour.com/croatia/

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